Off the coast of Tuscany you will find some incredibly beautiful islands that can feel like a whole different world unto themselves, a little slice of what seems not unlike paradise on earth. Among the cluster of islands that hug Tuscany's coastline, the most famous is, undoubtedly, is Elba Island, the place to which Napoleon was infamously exiled. The second biggest island of the group, Giglio Island, is also well-known, particularly among those who have spent time in Tuscany and on the Tuscan Coast. However, the next largest island of the bunch, Capraia Island, is much less well-known, which is truly a crying shame as it, too, is a rather extraordinary beauty with lots and lots to offer the discerning tourist who finds themselves exploring the region.
Capraia Island, located in the province of Livorno, is the northernmost of the seven islands that make up the Tuscan Archipelago and the third largest. It is connected to the mainland via the town of Livorno, where ferries depart daily from the port. Of volcanic origin and some nine million years old, the island of Capraia is part of the Arcipelago Toscano National Park and Marine Sanctuary. Around 1000 BC, the Greeks came to, and named, the island of Aegylon, meaning, “land of goats,” and visitors to the island will still note, to this day, the herds of goats and sheep and mouflons that are to be founded dotted throughout the landscape. The current name of Capraia Island, however, comes from the word, “Capraia,” derived from Latin and from the Etruscan word, “capra,” meaning, “rock,” which alludes to those impressive volcanic origins of the island. Rugged and rocky with distinctive red rock formations, these origins are still apparent and only add to the wildly beautiful nature of the island, which has led to it often being known as the, “wild island.”
The bestowing of this nickname was also due to the largely untouched and unspoiled nature of the place. There are only two tiny villages and only 300 people live on the island, occupying just 3% of its surface area while the other 97% is part of the National Park. The one and only asphalted road on the island connects the island's small harbour, Porto di Capraia, to the village overlooked by the imposing Fortress of St George. As a result, if you have come to visit and see what the island has to offer, it is easiest to explore Capraia Island by foot or, alternatively, by boat. A wine-producing centre, home to an anchovy fishery, and a popular stop for yachts exploring the Tuscan Coast in the summer, the island is home to a small, close-knit community and is a warm and pleasant place that really is quite removed from the hustle and bustle of life elsewhere but no less charming for it! In fact, this small but mighty community is actually incredibly active and colourful with all sorts of events and celebrations taking place throughout the year, just without the help of lots of fancy bars, clubs, restaurants, parties, or large numbers of people.
So, if you're coming to Capraia Island looking for a vibrant beach resort or a party island, this is decidedly not the destination for you (in fact, you probably need to look completely away from the islands of Tuscany to the larger towns along the coast such as Follonica) but, if you're in search of peace, quiet, beautiful surroundings, good hiking trails and lots of outdoor pursuits, a diverse and lovely wildlife, and much more besides, then this lovely little gem is just the place for you! As the painter and naturalist Lorenzo Dotti put it: "Imagine a big rock of lava, eight kilometres long and four wide, with no beaches, no umbrellas, no traffic lights and clubs. On the island there's a small harbour and a little village of small, colourful houses. One road, a castle, two towers, a traffic cop, three policemen, a postman, two grocery stores, four fishermen, a school, a priest, many cats, plenty of Mediterranean vegetation, fish and birds and hundreds of mouflons."
The ferry journey to the island from Livorno takes almost 3 hours and, as you set out across the water and leave the outside world behind, you will quickly find that you can leave all of your busy thoughts and daily stresses far behind as well as the smell of myrtle and the rugged cliffs and plains of often colourful Mediterranean scrub welcome you to this little world unto itself. While the Phoenicians, Greeks, Etruscans,and Romans have all inhabited Capraia, it has been invaded by Saracen and Turkish pirates, it has been home to a monastery and to a penal colony, while all of that has happened here on this little island, it still, miraculously, has remained largely untouched over the three millennia of recorded human interventions on the island.
Unspoiled and lovely, it is perfect for those in search of both peace and adventure. In spring, you can take in the beautiful flowers, go bird watching, trek and hike. In summer, you can sail, explore during the cooler mornings and evenings, and go swimming in the crystal clear waters that surround. And then, in autumn, the foodies can descend for the Squid Festival (Sagra del Totano) and enjoy even more solitude and pleasant hiking conditions as tourists peter out and the weather cools.
So, if you're looking for somewhere off the beaten track, an unspoiled gem in Tuscany removed from mass tourism, and all of the charms of the Tuscan Coast, head to the stunning Capraia Island!
