About 30km south of Pisa, you will find the pretty little Tuscan village of Lari. With medieval origins, it is dominated by the mighty fortress, the Castello dei Vicari (known as Vicari Castle or Lari Castle in English), which is perched as the crowning glory of the village. However, do not be lead astray by its pretty, if somewhat unusual, appearance, as it hides a long history of horror and hauntings within its walls. If you have found a vacation rental in Pisa and are considering planning a last-minute mid-term break, half-term, or Hallowe’en getaway to the area, then pencil a trip to the Castello dei Vicari into your itinerary. Perfectly spooky and a rare spot in Italy where you can usually find Hallowe’en celebrations, it is the ideal place to head to if you are in Tuscany in or around All Hallows’ Eve.
The first written records that we have of the castle date back to 732AD, though the castle that you see today is a very different building, having been rebuilt many different times throughout the centuries. It has also changed many hands throughout the years, from family to family, and lots of different kingdoms, rulers, and organisations. In the Middle Ages, it was under the control of the Republic of Pisa and then, in 1406, it came into the possession of the Florentine Vicari family, it was a prison, then it was home to Florentine vicars until halfway through the 19th century, then it was a jail again, and, finally, it came into the ownership of the Municipality of Lari, who restored it and opened it to the public.
The first written records that we have of the castle date back to 732AD, though the castle that you see today is a very different building, having been rebuilt many different times throughout the centuries. It has also changed many hands throughout the years, from family to family, and lots of different kingdoms, rulers, and organisations. In the Middle Ages, it was under the control of the Republic of Pisa and then, in 1406, it came into the possession of the Florentine Vicari family, it was a prison, then it was home to Florentine vicars until halfway through the 19th century, then it was a jail again, and, finally, it came into the ownership of the Municipality of Lari, who restored it and opened it to the public.
Over the centuries, the castle has also played host to some horrific moments throughout history. It has been a jail, a site of torture, and a place where lots of deaths have happened. In the 16th century, it is said that a local woman, Gostanza da Libbiano, was accused of witchcraft and punished in the castle for her “crimes”. A healer that drew people from all around due to her expertise in cures and with medicines and herbs, she was arrested in November of 1594 after a young boy that she had tried to cure died. Accused of murder and communion with the Devil, the 60-year-old woman was taken to the castle, which was then a prison, and was incarcerated, interrogated, and tortured.
As is often the case in tales of witch trials, the torture broke her and, willing to do anything to make it stop, she confessed to dealing with the devil. Gostanza took it back when presented to the General Inquisitor of Florence, who was presiding over the case, and, rather unusually in such a case, he realised that envy and spite had lead to the claims against the woman and she was innocent. Cleared of charges of witchcraft but banished three miles from her home, banned from treating people or animals ever again, and left mentally and physically disabled from the incredibly violent torture and poor treatment that she received, Gostanza is said to be one of the ghosts that still roams the castle, despite not having died within its walls. Angered by all that happened to her there and the life she had that was ruined, it is enough to have her return to the castle and haunt the place. She is said to be heard screaming in desperation on the darkest nights and to go through the walls wearing chains and rags to this day.
As is often the case in tales of witch trials, the torture broke her and, willing to do anything to make it stop, she confessed to dealing with the devil. Gostanza took it back when presented to the General Inquisitor of Florence, who was presiding over the case, and, rather unusually in such a case, he realised that envy and spite had lead to the claims against the woman and she was innocent. Cleared of charges of witchcraft but banished three miles from her home, banned from treating people or animals ever again, and left mentally and physically disabled from the incredibly violent torture and poor treatment that she received, Gostanza is said to be one of the ghosts that still roams the castle, despite not having died within its walls. Angered by all that happened to her there and the life she had that was ruined, it is enough to have her return to the castle and haunt the place. She is said to be heard screaming in desperation on the darkest nights and to go through the walls wearing chains and rags to this day.
The other famous ghost that is said to call the castle its home is that of Giovanni Princi, also known as “il Rosso della Paola”, who was a farmer that was imprisoned in the castle (which was a jail until WWII) in 1922 because of his anti-fascist political ideas. Giovanni was found hanging in his prison cell on the morning of December 16, 1922. Officially, it was said that he had killed himself, however, there were clear signs of violence on his body at the time that it was discovered and it has been speculated that he was actually beaten, murdered, and hanged to cover it all up. The prison then closed in 1934, with the former custodian and his family remaining on at the castle. They were the first to report strange happenings, unexplained events, and direct sightings of the ghost of Giovanni, on the nights of the 15th and the 16th of December, the anniversary of his death, each year.
The castle was bought by the municipality in the 1990s and, in 1991, the volunteers of the Cultural Association “Il Castello” began work on a restoration project to protect and highlight the great beauty and an inestimable Italian artistic and historical heritage of the building. Thanks to their incredible efforts, the castle was brought back to life and it is now open to the public who can tour the building throughout the year for just €3 per person. Included in the itinerary and tour of the building are the court room, the basement (also known as the Inferno), the infamous Room of Torment where torture took place, the chapel, and the inner courtyard. As noted earlier, special events also often take place in and around Hallowe’en to celebrate the creepy events and stories that are said to have taken place inside the building, as well as the artistic value and great beauty of the castle. Find a vacation rental in Pisa and come see this multi-faceted, fascinating gem in Tuscany for yourself!
The castle was bought by the municipality in the 1990s and, in 1991, the volunteers of the Cultural Association “Il Castello” began work on a restoration project to protect and highlight the great beauty and an inestimable Italian artistic and historical heritage of the building. Thanks to their incredible efforts, the castle was brought back to life and it is now open to the public who can tour the building throughout the year for just €3 per person. Included in the itinerary and tour of the building are the court room, the basement (also known as the Inferno), the infamous Room of Torment where torture took place, the chapel, and the inner courtyard. As noted earlier, special events also often take place in and around Hallowe’en to celebrate the creepy events and stories that are said to have taken place inside the building, as well as the artistic value and great beauty of the castle. Find a vacation rental in Pisa and come see this multi-faceted, fascinating gem in Tuscany for yourself!
Photo credit:
Picture 3: LigaDue / CC BY-SA 4.0
Picture 3: LigaDue / CC BY-SA 4.0
